By Brian Berkman

THE hot ticket invariably cools. In Vanilla’s case, they’ve remained smoking hot since their hyped opening in October last year as the second restaurant for the Newhouse family, who made their mark at Tuscany Beach, Camps Bay.
Twenty years later and R7 million spent, the 165-seater Vanilla is visual treat with multi levels and secluded private spaces and the campest white piano on a suspended glass platform where you’d expect to find Burt Bacharach at the keys.

With glass, silver, charcoal, cerise pink, vanilla tones and high gloss surfaces, the interior is grand ballroom meets space ship. The silvered Louis chairs are comfortable to sit on so didn’t find myself fidgeting to get blood to my derrière as I so often have to.

By day, two sides of the restaurant open up completely onto a four-storey atrium and fine dining is extended through to the outside piazza which offers al fresco dining for 65.
Like nearly ever other spot in town there’s also a sushi bar.

The food, conceived by famed chef Matthew Gordon, is pitch perfect and, when we dined there, flawlessly executed by Executive Chef Evan Coosner and second in line Greg Baverstock.

Start with the Bouillabaisse (R95) if you’re hungry as it is hearty and generously filled with salmon, mussels, prawns and line fish in a saffron broth perfumed by lemongrass and Asian coconut cream and garlic chips.

The confit duck salad (R65) is delicious to eat but you won’t find the shredded duck easily. In the mouth though the duck with its rich fattiness is unmistakable and when eaten with the bean sprouts, greens and crisp veg chips, it is a satisfying combination brought together with basil, coriander and lime dressing.
Tuscany Beach is so famous for their seafood; I thought I’d try Vanilla’s meat.

Although pricey, the beef fillet (R145) is the winner here with its elegant red-wine reduction saucing and accompanying onion puree, asparagus and classic fondant potatoes. Like the duck in the Asian salad, the foie gras topping here provides velvety richness to the lean meat. The combination is dreamy.
Sirloin (R120) usually requires more work but here they’ve cleverly sliced the steak before reassembling it so that it delivers flavour with minimum mastication. At Vanilla it comes encrusted in pepper with the tastiest onion tarte tatin I’ve had in a long time. A grainy mustard sauce lubricates and reinvigorates the mouth for the next bite. You’ll be sorry when it ends.

JP loved the nut dessert (R45) with its mini portions of pecan and caramel doughnut and almond bavarois, a perfect pistachio ice cream with jade tinges, almond nougat and walnut fudge roll. Avoiding the sugar, I headed for carbs instead with an outrageous portion of salmon roses to end. I’m pleased I did, so that I can tell you the sushi at Vanilla is good. The sexy combination of fresh raw salmon, the thinnest avocado sheath around the sticky rice topped with Japanese mayo and pink caviar is a winner and a very good way to round off a rich meal.

The other advantage of Vanilla is that you’re bound to know a whole bunch of people there. Have your cocktails and starters on the piazza and wave to everyone you know before heading upstairs for more privacy.
Open from 10am for brunch with dinner from six, Vanilla is in the new Cape Quarter. Call 021-421-1391, email reservations@vanillarestaurant.co.za or visit www.vanillarestaurant.com.

When not working the room, Brian Berkman assists clients with media training and PR campaigns. Email Brian@BrianBerkman.com or see www.BrianBerkman.com